Volume 10, Issue 6 - November/December 2008

T e c h T i p s

Ask the Doctor
by Gayle Good

ONCE AGAIN, THE AGE-OLD question has popped up: to drill or not to drill? The main purpose of drilling is to gain access into the damage for better resin flow. Most repairs can be done without drilling, but there are a few instances where the drill is needed. Repairing damage without an impact point, filling an unconnected area, repairing and stop drilling and end for a crack repair are all situations in which a drill comes in handy.

Windshield repair also factors in the type of injector system you use and the viscosity of resin you are using. Repair techs using injector systems that provide little pressure/ vacuum may need to drill the breaks more often than those using other systems.

The down side to drilling is that it adds depth to the pit area, causing a slightly larger blemish when done. Also, air bubbles may appear in the drill channel. Repairing without drilling leaves a nicer finish, so try to do the repair first, and then, if there is a problem with the resin getting in or the air vacuuming out, you can always drill after the fact before curing.

Another quick use for the drill is to fill surface pits. Surface pits usually do not need fixed; however, if they are big enough, a customer might ask you to try to do something with them. Using the drill to slightly etch the area gets the hills and valleys out and provides a uniform depth. Once the pit is filled and scraped smooth, the pit should flatten from the inside and the white pit should be clear.

Some techs never drill, some always drill and there are those who do both. No way is wrong, but a drill is a musthave tool in your kit, just in case. I’m sure the debate will continue, though, so if all else fails, check your kit manufacturer’s instructions.

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